IN THESE INFLATIONARY times, it isn't easy to find exquisite cuisine in an elegant atmosphere at easy prices.
But that winning combination does indeed exist at San Remo Ristorante in Orange.

There are crystal chandeliers, flickering candles on snowy linen-covered tables, wall murals interspersed with smoky mirrors and tuxedoed waiters. And there are very complete, top quality dinners — including sirloin steak for
$10.95.

An array of a la carte selections also is available, tempting appetizers, pastas, special salads and all sorts of entrees that start at $7 for veal piccata, parmigiana or pizzaiola and calamari or scungilli fra diavolo or marinara. But we stayed with the dinners, one offering seafood, the other continental choices.

Hearty appetizers

 On the seafood, hot or sweet mussels or clams oregano are the appetizers, with half a dozen meaty mussels served steaming in their shells under a light and lively— but not overly spicy — tomato sauce gently simmered with onions, parsley and garlic.

From the continental, we chose the antipasto over the eggplant rollatina and found it a near-meal in itself. There was provolone, prosciutto, salami, artichoke, anchovy, tomato, onion, chick peas, carrots and roasted green pepper with a sprinkling of oil and vinegar on a bed of crisp lettuce. Some start, along with a half loaf of warm and crusty Italian bread.

Linguini, with either red or white clam sauce, is then served with the seafood dinner. It was al dente pasta bathed in a delicate clam juice and garlic sauce brimming with ultra-fresh, chopped clamp. Ravioli or manicotti is offered with the other dinner and the manicotti was superb, a thin roll of pasta brimming with cheese that had been melted velvet .soft and smooth under a fresh tomato sauce.

Stuffed shrimp, one of three entree choices on the seafood dinner, were huge, firm and flavorful, packed with a rich crabmeat stuffing. They were in an extraordinarily fine white wine and brandy sauce artfully seasoned with minced green peppers, carrots, celery, onions and, of course, a subtle squeeze of garlic. Of two veal dishes and a sir loin steak, we chose the latter on the continental dinner, a prime cut prepared exactly to specifications and accompanied by zucchini.

Salads were with those and, while they varied slightly in content on two occasions we visited, they were imaginative — crisp greens with tomato and pimiento one time, with crunchy broccoli another. A house dressing of oil, vinegar and herbs was worthwhile.

Good-sized portions of either tortoni or spumoni with coffee or espresso capped those outstanding dinners at San Remo, a fine restaurant whose owner, Frank Basta, said: “In this economy, it's important to offer dinners that people can afford.” Basta is not only a genial host, he's a realist from San Remo.

Jean's Judgment
5 stars

San Remo, 535 Central Ave.; Orange. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch noon to 3 p.m. and for dinner Monday to Thursday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. or midnight. Sunday dinner 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.  Major credit cards accepted.